What is a moisturiser? Moisturisers are substances which prevent drying of the skin by either adding moisture orpreventing evaporation of the existing natural moisture in the skin.

What is my skin type? Before we discuss further and decide on a moisturiser, it is important to determine what skin type we are dealing with. Most people have one of the following skin types:

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  Oily skin: where the skin naturally produces excessive oil. Typically this is worse in the T-zone comprising of the central forehead, nose and chin. Oily skin can be associated with problems like acne and seborrhoeic dermatitis.

• Dry skin: Where the skin doesn’t produce enough oil and is dry as a result. Dry skin can be associated with ‘Sensitive skin’ (see below)
• Combination skin: Most people have ‘combination skin. This is a term used in people who have dry skin in general but an oily ‘T’ zone. However ‘oily’ skin is a relative term and as in everything in life, depends on one’s perception of how much oil is ‘oily’. In most people the ‘T’ zone will be oily than the rest of the face, simply because there are much more active oil glands in this area and these oil glands become more active especially during teenage/ early adulthood. However if the contrast between the ‘T’ zone and the rest of the face is much higher that what perceives as normal, this is termed combination skin. As explained earlier, this is a very subjective term.
• Sensitive skin: Some people are unable to tolerate various moisturisers or cosmetics. This can either be because they are allergic to certain chemicals (like perfumes) or preservatives; or because their skin gets easily irritated by these products. The latter is particularly common in people with dry skin, as dry skin does not have a protective oil barrier which prevents irritating chemicals from penetrating into and damaging the skin.

How does one determine if the skin is ‘oily’, ‘dry’ or a ‘combination’?

As already explained, these terms are somewhat subjective. However a simple guide is to wash your face, pat dry, wait for an hour and press a tissue to your face. Oily skin: Face looks shiny and the tissue has an oily residue Dry Skin: Face feels tight, looks dry/ flaky and the tissue does not have an oily residue Normal skin: Face looks and feels normal. No oily residue on the tissue. Combination skin: The rest of the face is dry/ normal, but the ‘T’ zone is shiny and tissue reveals an oily residue.

I have oily skin. Do I need a moisturiser? What are the benefits of moisturising?

Obviously not. One does not need a moisturiser if one naturally has oily skin. This can worsen the problem and moreover in pigmented skin can lead to problems with acne and rarely facial pigmentation (seborrhoeic melanosis). In fact people with oily skin would benefit from washing their face frequently with soap/ water and using a mild cleanser twice a day. However one needs to be careful not to overdo it, which may lead to problems with dry/ sensitive skin. You definitely need a moisturiser if you have dry skin. People with ‘normal’ or combination skin need to decide on using a moisturiser depending on how their skin is feeling. People with combination skin may benefit from moisturising the rest of the face, leaving out the ‘T’ zone. Even if you do have normal skin, using a moisturiser regularly keeps the skin supple, prevents it drying out, and protects the skin from irritation by various cosmetic products and chemicals we may come in contact with. Also moisturisers can help even out fine lines and wrinkles.

What are the different type of moisturisers available? Which is the best moisturiser?

There are four main classes of moisturisers: Occlusives: Petrolatum and dimethicone- work by preventing evaporation of water from the skin and are particularly effective when applied to already dampened skin. Occlusives are the most common type of moisturizers used in formulations. Humectants: glycerol or glycerin, hydroxy acids, propylene glycol, and urea – second major class of moisturizers, which increase the water content of the skin by enhancing water absorption into the skin surface (from the air and from the dermis underneath). Emollients: essential fatty acids, which are found in various natural oils (coconut/ olive/ almond oil etc) – improve the appearance and texture of skin by filling in the spaces between the skin cells and thus contribute to increased softness and smoothness of the skin thus improving its overall appearance. Rejuvenators: Collagen, keratin, and elastin- These are natural skin proteins intended to replenish essential proteins in this skin. However they do not penetrate into the skin and do not work as they are intended to. They only have a role similar to emollients and improve skin appearance by creating a film that aesthetically smoothens the skin and stretches out and fills in fine lines. They DO NOT rejuvenate the skin! Note: Ceramides which are marketed in expensive branded creams probably only have an emollient effect and are no superior to occlusives.

How does one choose a moisturiser? Obviously there cannot be one solution for all it all depends on which moisturiser makes your skin feel the most ‘normal’, without making it look too shiny or dry. Most people tend to go by how the moisturiser feels on their skin, which is a good measure to determine what is best for you. Just remember that ‘expensive’ does not equal ‘good moisturiser’! Petrolatum/ petroleum jelly is one of the cheapest and best moisturisers available in the market.

If you do have sensitive skin, make sure you go for a moisturiser with the least amount of chemicals, preferably ‘perfume-free’ rather than ‘hypoallergenic’. Hypoallergenic products still contain perfumes, but just do not contain the perfumes that people are commonly allergic to.